How to cross the Andes in style. Or at least in a cloud.

Meet Nacho and Dario our two Argentinian fixers. They are driving a support truck for our little group and have made all sorts of problems disappear. Nacho talked the Dakar authorities in Argentina to pre-clearing us through Argentina and Chile immigration, convinced the cops in Fiambala that we were “part of the rally” so could join the convoy over the Andes when the road was otherwise closed, produced fuel in the middle of nowhere, greased palms at official “checkpoints”, found accommodation ahead of time in villages that had no hotels, and has generally kept us fed and watered (even more important at altitude)

In this photo Nacho, is holding a fine package of fresh coca leaves which we all chewed from one side of the mountains to the other. The locals have been doing this for centuries to offset the effects of altitude sickness and so did we, officer. The taste is no worse than putting a herbal teabag in your mouth and the effect was as advertised – a fine day of riding was had by all. The disgusting photo is of my wad as I got rid of it as we dropped down into more breathable air. This stuff should be standard issue for every ski trip.