Fernando in Huamachuco

We arrived in Huamachuco in the Northerm Highlands of Peru looking for lunch, a place to rest, and some time to plan where we could camp that night. There was a political rally blocking one side of the town plaza but on the other side we found a restaurant. Across the street there was a couple of old gentlemen watching the world go by as they probably did most days.

We had our usual group of interested onlookers appear around the bikes and ask who we were, where we were from, and what we were up to but these gents remained reserved and distant; old-fashioned manners perhaps making it neither dignified nor polite to mob the strangers. So I went over and sat on their wall and chatted and, despite my poor Spanish and their accents, found out that Fernando and Cesar were farm workers who had retired long ago and had exactly the same questions as everyone else but didn’t want to bother us. He took a photo of me with his ancient cell phone and warmly welcomed me to his town. I asked if he wanted a picture of him on the bike. He said he was way too old for that kind of nonsense but asked for a picture with me. He then said he’d like a copy and I asked for his address in order to send one. He said “No, not in the post. Now” and pointed to Foto Rodriguez in the corner of the plaza. So a few minutes later I handed over the card from my camera and Señor Rodriguez produced two 4×6 glossy photos and adamantly refused to accept payment.

Fernando took the photo politely with dignity but without a smile. In the street he then unexpectedly hugged me and went on his way. We’d both made each other’s day very special.