La Policia LatinoAmericana

The police forces of Latin America do not have a very good reputation for honesty. They are rarely trusted by their citizens, they are underpaid, and often resort to creative ways to increase their compensation by taking a bite out of locals and tourists alike.

Our experience so far in South America has been the opposite. Maybe because we are big men traveling in packs on big garishly decorated bikes who always attract a crowd. This is not the perfect environment for petty graft as it would be very difficult to pick on us singly or to privately extract a bribe.

But, call me naive, I haven’t seen even a hint of this. Every interaction is with officers who have behaved politely and professionally. The police in Cartagena helped direct our night ride in the Plaza Grande, highway patrol cars often wave us past over double yellow lines at highly illegal speeds, the policeman is always one to ask for a photograph, traffic police break away from checking bus and truck papers to talk to us, motorcycle cops have waved and saluted us, and small town police have more than once organized impromptu crowd control to allow us safe passage.

Today a few of us stopped in a grubby dusty little town just off the Pan Americana north of Lima for fuel and snacks. We left our bikes in the shade of the gas station awning and went into the little store for sugary goodies. After a few minutes one of the local police trucks pulled up and the senior officer engaged us in conversation, asked about our trip, shook all our hands, and then pointed out that this was one of the highest crime neighborhoods in Peru. If our bikes, stuff, and helmets were not nailed down, they could disappear in a flash. The store clerk confirmed that recently two armed guys had stolen two motorbikes from this very gas station. We stood to leave but the officer said “No, please finish your drinks, my colleague and I will guard your bikes”. They then parked next to the bikes for as long as it took us to get dressed and ready to go, wished us “Buen viaje” and left.

My overall impression is that these officers are just as curious and impressed with our trip as everyone els but they also want these crazy, high profile foreign visitors to be made welcome and for them to leave with a positive image of their country and their community.

Thanks for your help officers. Protect and Serve.