Half Way There – Leaving Bolivia

Expedition65 set out to cross 65 degrees of latitude in 65 days. We left Cartagena, Colombia at 10 degrees N on September 7th and we are now in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile which is 23 degrees S – half of our 65 degrees are now completed.

We have visited four countries – Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia – each one has been a challenge in its own way but Bolivia was, for sure, the hardest and most challenging riding. We have ridden many many many roads that have been substantially more dangerous than the Death Road near La Paz but we are still here regrouping in San Pedro.

In Bolivia we had some very special moments and met some amazing people and here is just a small sample….

To get from the customs entry point near Copacabana, Bolivia to the capital La Paz, you have to cross a narrow part of Lake Titicaca on a fleet of independently operated barges that carry every size of vehicle – riding big bikes onto a lurching barge and then getting off backwards is one of the most unique challenges so far. Yes that is small look of panic on my face as we crossed while the barge was flexing.

The roads have been incredible. This is one shot of Chris Van Dyke on a narrow ledge along a river canyon. Yes it is as narrow as it looks and then the road went on a hair raising hairpin climb to get out and over to the next valley.

Tiberio and I took shelter in the shade of a house and chatted to the owner, Juan Paco. He told us about his farming operation, how he got tomatoes and peaches to market in La Paz, and then without pause he told us about his plans for expansion into grapes and would we American investors, like to work with him to provide external financing. Juan Paco – future Bolivian Entrepreneur of the Year. Interesting that the guy that actually took the photo is actually the boss of one of the biggest agriculture companies in the world – but not sure he wants to diversify into Bolivian wine making.

Donna Lupe and her family run a hostel on the edge of the Salar de Uyuni and managed to house 16 people when we just showed up exhausted at 9:30 at night. A crappy pile of dusty bricks from the outside but comfortable warm and clean on the inside. Never judge a hostel by its exterior.

We exited Bolivian Customs at the World’s Highest Customs Post – 16,508 feet. The crew there could not have been more pleasant and helpful but I have no idea why there is a customs post at the end of a 10 Km one way road next to a borax mine.

At Polques Hot Springs where we stayed at a refuge overnight, we met a German couple and their five year old boy who had cycled from Cartagena – eight months on the road and still heading south up and down the Andes. Amazing.

As we left the Polques refuge, the six year old daughter of the family that ran the place started to do the laundry. Her father fetched a barrel of hot water from the spring and she just got to work scrubbing and cleaning.

This has been an amazing glimpse into other people’s lives.